So, you’ve applied the number of coats needed in order to get the finish as opaque as desired. In most cases, two coats do it. Sometimes more are required if there is a high contrast between the color you chose and the surface you’re painting.
Once everything is dry, this is when I like to distress. Some people like to apply wax or oil finishes first, then distress, then apply the finish again, while others like to dive right into the distressing. I fall in the latter camp. It’s one less step and it uses less product. The advantage to waxing or oiling first is that it cuts down dramatically on the amount of dust that is produced.
Now, the paint is dry, the distressing is done and you’re ready for a topcoat.
Let me insert here that you can leave milk paint raw and I often do. Raw milk paint is matte, chalky and so beautiful on certain pieces and in certain colors. If you like the piece as is, then just leave it! I wouldn’t leave a tabletop or other well-used horizontal surfaces raw, but it’s fine for table legs, chairs, dressers, hutches, etc.
If you want to apply a finish, you have a few different options within our product line. You can, of course, use whatever topcoat you want, but I’m going to cover the ones I carry in my line in this post. If you’d like my take on other topcoats I’ve used in the past, you can check out THIS POST.
This is a long, packed-with-information kind of post, so let’s dive in…
We currently offer four waxes, plus a limited edition of the Furniture Wax with a lavender scent added.
Furniture Wax goes on clear. It can be applied with a brush (a fluffy, natural brush is best) or a cloth. I prefer a cloth when I’m applying to large, flat surfaces, and a brush to get into nooks and crannies of spindles and carvings.
The key with any wax is to apply it in a thin layer. If you ever have trouble with wax being smudgy, sticky, smeary, tacky, etc., it means you applied too much wax. Think of wax like a skin lotion. It needs to be worked into the surface evenly, allowing it to be absorbed. Too much will just sit on top and be a mess.
It should feel dry to the touch almost immediately. It might feel a little cool and waxy, but the piece can be touched and used right away.
- It gives a super smooth, hard, water-repellant finish without any brush strokes.
- Wax is a finish that absorbs, but it’s also a “buildable” finish. You can build the finish by adding more (thin) layers of wax, which can make the finish glossier and thicker.
- The gloss can also vary based on how you buff it. If you just buff it with your brush as you apply it, it will be matte. If you buff it by hand, with gusto, or with an electric buffer/buffing pad, it can have a nice gloss to it.
- If a wax finish is marred/scratched, it can be repaired. Lightly sand the marred area and reapply more wax.
- It is labor intensive to apply wax. Our wax is soft, like the consistency of margarine, so it spreads on easily, but it still takes some muscle.
- It can be tricky to get it really smooth in appearance on a large, flat surface, like a table top. An electric buffer or a buffing pad on an orbital sander really helps with that.
- It is wax and it will melt if it gets too hot. It does have to be pretty intense heat and sunshine, so being inside under a window would be fine. Just keep it in mind, especially if you have pieces on a porch or are putting them in a garage or storage unit that isn’t climate controlled.
- Remember these are a decorative technique and a finish in one. It’s not necessary to apply another finish over Antiquing or White Wax.
- If you want more control over the intensity of the tinted wax, apply it over Furniture Wax. The clear Furniture Wax will act as a barrier, sealing in the color, preventing the tinted wax from staining the paint. It makes it easier to slide around, too, for a more subtle end result.
- The idea is to work the tinted wax into all of the recesses of the piece and then wipe it off of the “high points”, so the wax remains more intense in those recesses. This highlights texture, dings, dents, crazing, carvings, etc.
- You can mix the two waxes together to make a “gray wax”, which is lovely, especially over whites.
- The tinted waxes can also be used directly on raw wood, almost as a staining wax. The Antiquing Wax gives a beautiful warm stain and the White Wax lends a pickled/limed look.
100% BEESWAX FINISH
This is the new wax on the block. We introduced it, so we could have a food safe, all-natural wax. It is stiffer than the other waxes in our line and, for that reason, I prefer to apply it with a rag, using a brush only to get it into nooks and crannies. A little bit goes a very long way with this particular wax.
This wax can be used in all of the ways Furniture Wax can, but it is food safe, so it can be used on cutting boards, rolling pins, butcher block counters, wooden children’s toys, etc.
I wasn’t even sure I was going to carry this finish with the milk paint line when it first launched. I was new to oil finishes and wasn’t 100% sold on them. Now, Hemp Oil is probably my favorite product in our line and my favorite finish ever. It is so versatile, so easy to use, and it gives consistently good results.
You can use it on raw wood, stained wood, porous paint, metal, leather and more. Like wax, it’s a finish that absorbs, but unlike wax, it isn’t “buildable”. If you apply more layers of Hemp Oil, it’s just going to sit on top and get sticky. You only want to apply as much oil as the surface can absorb.
Just brush it on with a natural bristle brush and wipe away the excess with a clean(ish), lint-free cloth. We started using microfiber cloths in the studio last year and those are the best for this. They don’t leave lint behind and they are great at wicking up the oil and leaving the finish nice and smooth.
Some tips for working with Hemp Oil –
- You may notice the oil leaching out of the surface a day or two after application. Just wipe it down with a microfiber cloth. It will stop, but the surface is just letting you know it can’t absorb that oil and it should be wiped up.
- In dryer climates, as the hemp oil dries out, it can be reapplied at any time to bring back richness and a slight gloss to the finish.
- One of my favorite techniques with Hemp Oil is “wet sanding”. Apply Hemp Oil and don’t wipe up the excess. Leave the surface wet and then sand it with a fine sand paper. Once you’re done sanding, wipe away the excess oil. The result is a buttery smooth finish like no other. It’s just divine.
TOUGH COAT (water based poly)
I was really hesitant to add a water based poly to our line. I like finishes that absorb, like waxes and oils, not ones that sit on top, like poly finishes. The problem comes in when moisture gets under it and they chip, flake, etc. They aren’t as forgiving with gouges, scratches, heat and watermarks. BUT, before I talk you out of it altogether, there are some great uses for a water based poly, which is why I decided to add Tough Coat to the line.
Tough Coat is a buildable, durable finish that is the hardest finish in our line. It is self-leveling and non-yellowing. You can apply it with a brush, roller, sprayer or applicator pad.
We have been carrying it in a satin finish, but the “new & improved” formula is matte.
I personally like to use it for two main things…as a sealer for chipping paint (new milk paint or old paint) and as a sealer/primer for pieces that might bleed.
One thing to keep in mind is that almost all finishes, including these, require about 30 days to fully cure. This means that you cannot expect the topcoat to perform at its best until it’s been allowed to cure completely. That’s like expecting a fresh manicure to hold up while you’re fishing your keys out of your purse. The finish needs to dry AND cure before it’s heavily used. You can use pieces finished with all of the products above the same day they are finished, but just be gentle with them. Don’t place things that are heavy or wet on top. Be careful as you’re moving them and living with them.
You will notice a difference in the feel and durability of the finish once it’s cured, so be patient!
WHICH FINISH IS RIGHT FOR YOUR PROJECT?
I wish there was a clearcut answer. There are just so many variables and a lot of it comes down to preference. I hear of people combining our topcoats and using them in ways I hadn’t tried or even thought of and the look is brilliant.
In the studio, we use Hemp Oil about 80% of the time. We keep it in a cup sitting out when we’re working on furniture a lot, because it’s just our go-to. I know other people who love Tough Coat or love Waxes. I think there are projects that are well-suited to one finish or the other, but there really aren’t set rules.
Remember that furniture painting/refinishing is part technical, part art. The art part of that equation gives you license to experiment, play, break from convention and discover what you love.
I hope that sharing the details about each finish will give you a point in the direction of which finish is right for you!