Sorry that it’s been over a month since I last posted in the milk paint 101 series!  I like blog series, because they help me focus my writing efforts, but I am still Marian and I still get distracted.

So, let’s continue.

But first, here are links to the first three parts of this series, in case you missed them…

part 1 | what is milk paint?


part 2 | how to mix milk paint

miss mustard seed-7603

part 3 | surface prep


And now you’ve brushed on your first coat of milk paint and you’re pretty certain you’ve destroyed your piece of furniture.  Because it looks something like this…


I’ve talked about the ugly stage before. It’s just a thing with makeovers.  It’s the part of the makeover when you have foil all over your head or when the entire contents of your closet are on your floor.

It gets worse before it gets better.

The key is to resist the urge to drag that piece of streaky, half-painted furniture to your curb.

It will work out.


Yes.  That really is the same dresser.

I will be the first to admit that milk paint can look a little scary after the first coat (and it has on many occasions.)

One of the contributing factors to the ugly stage is that milk paint is thinner than most other paints on the market.  This is an advantage because it’s very forgiving when it comes to brushstrokes and drips.  It goes on smooth, even for sloppy painters.  It’s a pretty good tradeoff is an ugly first coat.

The other nice thing about thin paint is that it dries super fast.  I can usually apply the second coat as soon as I’m done with the first coat.

Another factor is that you rarely, if ever, need to use primer before applying milk paint, so the first coat goes directly onto the surface you’re painting.



Just trust me on this one.  Push through to the second coat.


Things get worlds better on the second coat.


…and they get even better when everything is finished.


…and we’ll talk about finishes next time.

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