MMS Glitter Houses

glitterOkay. This little project has been a long time coming! Almost a year and a half ago I went to my first Country Living Magazine Fair and I saw some little vintage wooden houses in one of the vendor’s booths. I really fell in love with them. Scroll down to the end of this post here if you’d like to see the inspiration. It shouldn’t have taken quite so long to do such a simple project…but there you have it. Life happens like that sometimes! It’s true that I don’t love using the table saw – so I got my husband to run some scraps of 2×4 through for me. It only took him a few minutes. After he cut them into a “roof point” I gave them a quick sand (you don’t need a power sander for this one). I sanded the flat surfaces till they were smooth(ish) and I took off all of the sharp corners – to make them look worn.

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I made two sets of houses (I’ll show you the other set in another post). This set was destined for my first try with Miss Mustard Seed’s Glitter! I ordered some from Decor Steals when I saw it come up. Can’t resist a sale!

Before the little cuties were ready for glitter though – they needed to be painted, right?

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They got two coats of Ironstone MMSMP – they just keep getting cuter!

I did some experimenting with different ways of “decorating” my little houses – for this batch I used Chalk Ink Markers.

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I didn’t try erasing any of the lines that I made – but I wouldn’t suggest it. This kind of chalk marker IS erasable – but it’s WET erase. I’m pretty sure it would just make a mess. However, this black Chalk Ink Marker worked perfectly to draw on the Milk Paint surface. I’ve really had a thing for Christmas Villages this year – and I’ve had a great time thinking them up – and sketching them out. I’ve been browsing them on Pinterest and seeing them on blogs – I especially liked this one from Thoughts From Alice. If you think my little church looks familliar…

My plan all along was to put glitter “snow” on the tops of the little things – and I experimented with a couple of different methods. First – I simply used Elmer’s glue and squeezed it along the ridge line of the the house. It dripped down all on it’s own – I thought this first one (with the Tricycle roof) came out looking too “regular” even though I really did let it drip how ever it wanted to! It’s still pretty adorable though.

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That’s regular old school glue with MIss Mustard Seed’s Fallen Snow Glitter.

(ps. this house might look a little like my house…)

On the next little house I put the glue on in the same way (straight out of the squeezy bottle) but I coerced the drips into looking a little more natural! I also added some Tiara (silver) glitter on top of the Fallen Snow.

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When I decorated the little “church” I painted the glue on to the entire surface of the roof and used Fallen Snow on that part – then I just added a little bit of “dripping” Tiara at the top.

This is so fun.
🙂

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I like this method the best – I really think it shows off the beautiful sparkle (which is hard to photograph) of the Fallen Snow Glitter.

I set them all up on my dining room mantel – and had even more fun putting the little scene together and arranging the whole thing. How about some more pictures?

Red roof 4 final

white house 1 final

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And here’s my whole little village!

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Merry Christmas! Only a few more days!

-breida

KRISTE’S MILK PAINT JOURNAL | beaded garland

garland

Are you all excited for the holidays? I must admit, my excitement begins mid-August and last through- well, my birthday in mid-February when our tree typically comes down! I love it all. So, this year, I am trying to fill our home with pretty pieces that I will love for many years down the road. Since decorations tend to last much longer than usual around here, I wanted to find/make pieces that would be more “wintery” than “Christmasy”.

Rosemary&Thyme-26

 

For this project, I decided to make some beaded garland. These strands work great on shelves, windows and even tucked into garland or trees! The process is really easy and only takes about an hour.

 

SUPPLIES

WOODEN BEADS | I chose two different sizes, but you can keep yours all the same size. It’s up to you and how you want everything to look!
STRING |  long enough for your desired garland
WIRE | this will help when painting the beads. I used an 18g crafting wire.
MMSMP | Ironstone and Tricycle

Rosemary&Thyme-17Rosemary&Thyme-18

 

STEP ONE:
I made a loop with my craft wire and strung the beads on creating a circle. Go ahead and make two different circles- one for the smaller beads, one for the bigger ones. I gave the larger beads two coats of Ironstone, but if you like the wood showing through, you could get away with one! Give your smaller beads a coat of Tricycle and you’re ready to string!

Rosemary&Thyme-16

 

STEP TWO:
Cut your string at the length that you want for the full garland plus 4 inches. I tied off loops at the beginning and end of my garland to make it easier to hand. So tie a loop, string the beads alternating colors and then tie another loop at the end.

Rosemary&Thyme-19Rosemary&Thyme-20

 

It’s as easy as that! This sweet piece has been moved around my home a few times now in search of the perfect home. Everywhere I go, I want it to follow so I think I will definitely have to make a couple more! That way I don’t look like the crazy one constantly armed with her Christmas garland.
Rosemary&Thyme-21 copy Rosemary&Thyme-24 Rosemary&Thyme-25

MMSMP | PREP WORK | PART FIVE…

MMSMP | prep work | part fiveWelcome back to the fifth installment in my mini-series on prepping your furniture to become a milk paint masterpiece.

Okay. So – I TOLD you that you might be surprised by what I ended up doing with these shutters…

Here’s what they looked like when I got them.

MMSMP | prep work | part five

They’re pretty outstanding, wouldn’t you say? Most of the time the photos in a Craigslist ad are pretty bad and this was no exception. I could tell that they were old shutters but I couldn’t really see the condition of the paint.
The shutters have actually been leaning up against the wall in my barn since mid July. In the back of my head I was planning to paint them (probably in Ironstone or Grainsack) but I never really did a close inspection until the day I brought them out to take photos for this mini series.

MMSMP | prep work | part five

MMSMP | prep work | part five

So – what kind of prep work will these shutters need for their makeover? Do you remember the two questions?

1. What have you got?
(old painted wood with awesome natural chipping patina)

2. What are you going for?
Well. It turns out – I thought they were pretty much perfect just as they were. Unfortunately that paint that remained on there is almost certainly lead based and, as my end goal for these beauties is to hang them on the wall over our bed (in lieu of a headboard), they couldn’t just be left alone. The natural cracking of the original paint was pretty amazing but each little square was just barely hanging on. If I went ahead and hung them over our heads we’d be having a lead snack in our sleep every night.

TOUGH COAT TO THE RESCUE
(read about Tough Coat here)

I decided to just coat them with Tough Coat. Keep in mind – these shutters were really kind of dusty and dirty (can we call that Patina?) but even the slightest brush with my hand or a cloth was removing just as much original paint as dirt. Even in the places where the paint wasn’t flaking off the wood entirely, there was still a white powder coming off. I decided to just stop right there and not fool with it any more. The Tough Coat went on right over what ever dust and dirt was on the shutters.

As I said, I want to put them in my bedroom but I’m not ready to tackle that room re-do at the moment. Once they got their coating of Tough Coat they came into the dining room for a photo shoot. I took some pictures with just this little school desk in front of them – so that you could see them.
All the little chips of paint are still in place – and now they’re held on fast.

MMSMP | prep work | part five

MMSMP | prep work | part five

MMSMP | prep work | part five

Later, I restyled them with the real furniture that lives in this space in my dining room. This is where they’ll stay until I’m ready to move them upstairs. I actually think they look great behind my grandmother’s old table (?) (I’m not really sure what to call this piece of furniture that belonged to my grandmother) . I’m looking forward to doing something “Christmassy” with them, soon!

MMSMP | prep work | part five

MMSMP | prep work | part five

I may still paint them at some point. I have a feeling that they might still look amazing with a fresh coat of Milk Paint. All of the texture would still be there… and the Tough Coat makes a perfect base coat for painting with MMSMP. They might turn out really fantastic… but for now they’re finished!

Thanks for following along with the mini series on prep work! Anyone have any suggestions for other topics you’d like to know more about? I’m all ears!

If you’re considering this kind of makeover yourself and you’ve got questions – I’d be happy to try and help you out – feel free to ask away in the comments!

-breida

MMSMP | PREP WORK | PART FOUR…

Welcome back to the fourth installment in my mini-series on prepping your furniture to become a milk paint masterpiece.

SEE PART ONE HERE
SEE PART TWO HERE
SEE PART THREE HERE

So far I’ve walked you through one previously unpainted piece and one heavily painted piece. Now let’s look at another unpainted piece.

I think it was back in this post where I said I felt a “chippy white” milk piece coming on…and I was right!

Here’s the before picture that I’ve already shown you.

petite unpainted dresser

When I saw this piece on craigslist (and even when I first got it home), I thought that it would make a great candidate for a beautiful authentic chippy finish. So I might just be able go right out to the barn with my plastic cup of milk paint and get straight to painting. But remember – there are those two questions that you have to answer.

1. What have you got?

2. What are you going for?

I already knew that I wanted a chippy finish but this is what I saw when I looked closer at the current surface of this little dresser…

petite unpainted dresser

The poly-type finish that was on the little dresser was already extremely flaky and…chippy. When I ran my hand across this surface, little bits of it came right off and stuck to my fingers. Lots of them. What I’ve learned is that if I put Milk Paint directly onto this type of surface, the water in the paint “activates” the remaining finish and in the end, nearly every last scrap of paint would chip off. So – even for a chippy look – this surface was too far gone to be painting over. It really had to be sanded down. I was a bit disappointed (because I thought I had found a piece that needed NO PREP WORK) but, no. I did have to sand down the whole dresser but because the finish was so shot – it was a really quick job. That poly just vanished under the sandpaper. I followed the same sanding routine that I always use. I generally begin with 60 grit sandpaper and move on to 100 and then 220.

A note about sanding: I think a random orbital sander (or at least a palm sander) is an absolute must. You certainly could do it all by hand with a sanding block but an electric sander is very inexpensive and will shorten your prep work time by MANY HOURS and you won’t get sore muscles!

Not wanting to give up on my chippy goal altogether, I decided to sand down most of the flat surfaces and leave the detail work unsanded.

LW Dresser Before 4 final

I sanded across the flat surface of the vertical lines on the side and across the little domed carvings of the top drawer as well, but left the indented parts as is…

petite dresser prep work

Weirdly, the knobs do not come off of this dresser. I’ve never come across that before. There are just no screws inside the drawer to release them. They must screw in from the front and be attached with glue as well because I could not budge them. It made it a little more difficult to sand (and paint) but you’ve got to work with what you have!

Once i had it all sanded down I applied 3 coats of Ironstone and let the chipping begin!

Ironstone Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint Dresser 1

…and a little further along in the process…

Ironstone Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint Dresser 3

In order to keep the chipping from continuing indefinitely in those places that I left unsanded, I tried out the new MMSMP Tough Coat for the first time. I was a little concerned about how it would look on the bright white Ironstone but it really is super clear. You can see it here on the top of the dresser. Well, actually you can’t see it at all – and that’s the whole idea, right?

Ironstone Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint Dresser

Ironstone MMS Milk Paint with at finish of MMS Tough Coat…

And here is how it all came together…

Ironstone Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint Dresser

Ironstone Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint Dresser

Ironstone Miss Mustard Seed's Milk Paint Dresser

A note about MMS Tough Coat: I was really pleased that the Tough Coat did not yellow the very white Ironstone paint at all. There were, however a few places on this dresser where some yellowing is noticeable. That was a function of the Tough Coat wetting the old unsanded poly finish and me spreading that reactivated wet poly over the chipping areas with my paint brush. If I had realized that that might happen ahead of time, I could have prevented it by avoiding “over stroking” those areas with the paint brush. Even so, it does not diminish the look. Those parts just look a little more “aged”.

This one is available in my Etsy Store and I’m hoping someone will love this petite little chippy white piece as much as I do. It’s small enough to fit under a window or next to a bed. Can’t wait to see where it ends up!

EDIT: SOLD – but feel free to visit the store to see what else I’ve got for you!

If you’re considering this kind of makeover yourself and you’ve got questions – I’d be happy to try and help you out – feel free to ask away in the comments!

NEXT UP IN THIS SERIES:

The last piece in the “prep work” mini-series is coming up. Do you remember these amazing shutters?

painted antique shutters

They were yet another craigslist find…you might be surprised at what I ended up doing with them…

I was!

see you soon,

-breida

MMSMP | prep work | part three…

Welcome back to the third installment in my mini-series on prepping your furniture to become a milk paint masterpiece.

SEE PART ONE HERE
SEE PART TWO HERE

So. We began the series with a previously unpainted piece and now I think we will move on to something completely different. This dresser is another one of my craigslist finds. I recently wrote a two part post about picking and choosing when it comes to craigslist furniture (Part 1 HERE) (Part 2 HERE) and why some pieces might be better left behind. If you’re going to make that judgement based on how much time you will have to invest in your furniture makeover – then this is definitely one of those times when I should have passed. However, I had been looking for a dresser in this style (I still don’t know what it’s called) and the price was pretty good. To be honest – I wasn’t really thinking with any kind of practicality at the time. It was exactly what I was looking for. Except…it had so. much. paint.

HEAVILY painted dresser

HEAVILY painted dresser

In this next photo you can see that it even had stickers on it that were painted right over at some point. What you can’t see is that one of the back legs was cracked in half – repaired with masking tape – and even the tape was painted right over! More than once!

Heavily Painted Dresser

There was so much paint on this thing that even after I unscrewed the knobs from the inside of the drawers, I still couldn’t get them off. I literally had to whack them with a hammer in order to remove them… (By the way, they were just plain wood knobs and I threw them away. It was much easier and more cost effective to replace them than to try and strip them).

Okay – so, do you remember from the beginning of the series what the two questions are that need answering when you’re deciding what to do for prep work?

1. What have you got? (a HEAVILY painted piece)

2. What are you going for?

When I began, I wasn’t really sure what I was going for. I told you I wasn’t really thinking all that clearly. But, if you’ve got a painted piece you’ve basically got two choices when it comes to prep. You’re either painting over the existing finish OR you’re going to strip the existing finish.

Clearly, this has to be stripped.

Heavily Painted Dresser

Some notes about stripping: It sounds really intimidating right? Well, I just want to point out that this is the first piece I ever stripped. I used Citristrip. I wasn’t in a hurry to get this piece done so I just went about it one section at a time – kind of learning as I went along. Read the instructions on the label and use your common sense. Flat surfaces are EASY- start there. You can see in the photo above that the paint is coming off really nicely – but not all the way down (through 5 layers of paint) to the wood. This is where I learned to leave it setting overnight – after that – it went right down to the wood and just needed one last quick application to remove the final layers of the original poly and stain. I use the Citristrip, After Stripper Wash, as well and it really cleans up very nicely with no offensive smells. The detail work on this piece (on the front) required a stiff wire “toothbrush” sort of tool found in the refinishing section at the hardware store. I also used the pointy end of a drywall screw to get paint out of some really tiny spaces. Just remember – this is all doable – even for a beginner. It does require some patience – but there are some paint jobs that just cannot be painted over. You will have to strip! But it’s OKAY! You can do it!

Now. In answer to the question of what look are you going for, your options are WIDE OPEN at this point! Once you’ve got your piece fully stripped you will want to give it all a light sanding with a fine sanding sponge – just in case any of the grain in the wood has been raised by the application of the stripper and the wash. I decided to stain the top of the dresser with a dark coffee colored stain and paint the body with Boxwood MMSMP. I finished with two coats of Hemp Oil.

Remember what it looked like before?

Heavily Painted Dresser

And after…

MMSMP Makeover Boxwood Dresser breidawithab.com

In the end I really do think this piece was worth all of the time and effort I had to put into it. I learned a lot along the way – about shopping for furniture – about stripping furniture – and best of all – this is where I fell in love with applying milk paint to raw wood.

MMSMP Makeover Boxwood Dresser breidawithab.com

The finish is just so smooth and it just plays so nicely with wood.

MMSMP Makeover Boxwood Dresser breidawithab.com

MMSMP Makeover Boxwood Dresser breidawithab.com

Imagine what this top would have looked like without the prep work done before hand??

MMSMP Makeover Boxwood Dresser breidawithab.com

Imagine letting that hide under all that paint?

MMSMP Makeover Boxwood Dresser breidawithab.com

MMSMP Makeover Boxwood Dresser breidawithab.com

So. This kind of prep work can be a bit tedious – but, it’s well worth it in the end.

If you’re considering this kind of makeover yourself and you’ve got questions – I’d be happy to try and help you out – feel free to ask away in the comments!

NEXT UP IN THIS SERIES:

The next piece in the series on prep work will be this adorable little dresser… I’m going for a chippy look! I can probably just go straight to painting, right??
Hmmm… we’ll see about that…

petite unpainted dresser

see you soon!

-breida

MMSMP | prep work | part two

#mmsmilkpaint #PrepWorkWelcome back to the second installment in my mini-series on prepping your furniture to become a milk paint masterpiece.

SEE PART ONE HERE
(this post contains 4 “before” photos – one for each in the series)

Let’s get started with the first piece in the series. It’s one of the never-been-painted-before pieces. I bought this desk (it’s actually a vanity but the person I bought it from used it as a desk through high school and college before going on to become an oncologist – so let’s call it a desk, okay?) So, I bought the desk through craigslist and it’s a perfect example of the very best that can be had there. This desk is a really lovely antique and I paid very, very little for it.

This is one of those pieces that some people (me) might find little intimidating to get started on. It’s a gorgeous piece of furniture. Some might feel that it shouldn’t be painted at all (not me). I happen to know a little bit of the is history of this piece though and trust me, it is lonely and languishing and needs this makeover so it can go on and live a new and happy life with a new owner. Maybe it can take another student through med school and on to helping those in need…

miss mustard seed makeover - prep work

It didn’t take me long to decide that I wanted to use Typewriter (October’s color of the month) on this piece. To be honest, I’ve seen a few similar pieces – including one of Marian’s, done in Typewriter and I was just dying to do one myself. I absolutely LOVE the combination of the black paint and the wood tone and that is the look I was going for. Remember? In the last post in this series I said that in order to determine what prep work would need to be done, we would need to answer two questions.

1. What have you got? In this case I had a previously unpainted solid wood piece in very good structural condition. The desk had a poly finish of some kind and that finish was in slightly questionable shape. There were some runs and it was a little messy – not pretty – but not too bad.

unpainted desk

I wish I had taken a picture of the top surface but I guess I didn’t… The finish on the top was completely shot. Not only were there “rings” but some of them were melted right through the finish – leaving a very uneven surface.

2. What are you going for? I knew that I wanted a combination of black and wood but not in a chippy way.

What had to be done: Since the finish on the top of this piece was destroyed, it had to be refinished. That is really very simple- no stripping involved. If you’ve never done this kind of thing before – this is a great way to begin. A nice flat horizontal surface like this, with no carvings or delicate detail is very easy to refinish. Perfect for a beginner. I just sanded it down. I began with my random orbital sander and a 60 grit sandpaper disc. I moved on to 100 and 220 on my palm sander and then finished by hand with a 220 grit sanding sponge (the sponge almost has a polishing effect on the wood). After the top was sanded down I simply added two coats of MMS Hemp Oil. I had originally planned to use a dark stain but I changed my mind at the last minute. Boy! Was I glad?! Look at this!

unpainted desk

Woah! I had to stop and whip out my phone to take these pictures – the transformation that happened when I started applying the hemp oil blew me away…

Unpainted Desk

I don’t know what kind of wood it is but it’s GORGEOUS! It GLOWS!

You can see in the earlier photos that the finish on the rest of the desk was a bit messy – it was solid – not flaking or chipping off – but still not very attractive. Since it was smooth enough though – I just painted right over it. No additional prep work necessary there. After I wiped it all down to remove surface dirt and spiders (lots and lots of spiders) I went ahead and painted it WITH the addition of the Bonding Agent in my paint (i didn’t want any chipping).

That’s it.

Want to see how it came out?

Black Desk

I am absolutely thrilled with the end result.

The color of this wood was not what I was expecting – it has a much redder tone than I was looking for (is it cherry??) but I love it anyway. It’s a beautiful shade. I did a good deal of distressing on the carved details and the trim work on the drawer fronts and I finished the whole piece (bare wood and paint alike) with MMS Hemp Oil.

Black Desk

I left this flower medallion untouched.

Black Desk

This piece is now posted in my Etsy shop. I can’t wait to find out who will have this lovely piece of re-imagined history for their own.

So! The PREP WORK on this piece was not so bad, right? Not very time consuming and really not all that difficult or tedious.

If you’re considering this kind of makeover yourself and you’ve got questions – I’d be happy to try and help you out – feel free to ask away in the comments!

NEXT UP IN THIS SERIES:

A HEAVILY painted dresser. Is this thing even salvageable??

HEAVILY painted dresser

you bet it IS!

see you soon!

-breida

MMSMP | prep work

Tell me.
Are you one of those people who really want to try Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint but haven’t quite worked up to doing it yet? I’ll bet there’s even a possibility that you’ve already started collecting. Oh, you know. Collecting paint brushes, drop cloths, latex gloves… There are some of you who got very excited and ordered some MMSMP as soon as it came out (in the lovely cardboard boxes lined with crinkled paper). And maybe – just maybe, you’ve got a piece (or two, or three, or seven) sitting in your garage. Yeah, you’ve been collecting furniture, too. Yardsales, Craigslist, family donations… Pieces that you know you want to work on. You can see them in your mind’s eye – utterly transformed – the way you’ve now seen so many wonderful pieces done over online and yet…

There they sit.

It may just be that all you need is to collect one more thing to give you the confidence to get started – just a little bit of information on how to begin – and each piece that you work on will begin with

Prep Work

Don’t let that term scare you! There is a huge range in the amount of prep work that needs to be done on a piece of furniture to be painted with milk paint and I’ll take you through some of the decision making processes. The range can go from doing absolutely nothing (beyond knocking out the spiders and wiping off the dust) to a complete job of stripping and refinishing and/or repainting an entire piece from the ground up. The amount of work you will need to do is determined largely by two things

1. What have you got?
2. What are you going for?

I’ve said before (many times, I think) that you’ve got to be able to roll with the punches when it comes to the finish on your milk paint pieces but in most cases and with most pieces of furniture your prep method will have the biggest influence on your final outcome. In this little mini-series on prep work I’m going to take you through four different pieces of furniture – two that were previously painted and two that were never painted – that I have worked on (or am currently working on). We will look at answering both of those important questions – what kind of current condition have I got and what kind of look am I going for?

And here are the four pieces!

1. never painted vanity/desk with a semi shiny but fairly damaged finish

unpainted desk

unpainted desk

2. never painted petite dresser – poly finish – extreme flakiness

petite unpainted dresser

petite unpainted dresser

3. HEAVILY painted dresser – no idea what the wood will be like underneath

HEAVILY painted dresser

HEAVILY painted dresser

4. pair of antique painted shutters – very old and chipping

painted antique shutters

painted antique shutters

So. There we have FOUR projects. Two previously painted and two never painted. Each one of them will be getting a Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint Makeover and each one will require some amount of prep work. Remember, how much and what type of prep work will depend on:

1. What you’ve got.
2. What you’re going for.

And yes, of COURSE they’re only the BEFORE pictures!! That way you’ll want to come back and see the AFTERS! That’s how this works!

see you soon!

-breida

CURIO AS A STAIN

When we took possession of our new retail space for The Ironstone Nest, we completely gutted it: removed acoustic ceiling, paneling, entire walls and the 3-tenant-old office carpeting. I knew I wanted wood on the floor and had originally considered white-washing raw wood flooring. And then I remembered that we are in the Midwest and come December, when everyone is arriving in their slushy, wet boots, I’d regret that white-washed flooring very quickly.

So I began searching Pinterest (of course) for inspiration, but came up empty handed. I really wanted hardwood floors, but that was way over our budget, no matter how many times I tried to recalculate it. Then a few people mentioned they had seen plywood used as hardwood floors. What? I went to the internet and typed in “plywood floors” and sure enough, there they were! We calculated how many 4′ x 8′ sheets of plywood we’d need and headed off to Home Depot. We ordered 45 plywood sheets and Home Depot cut them for us (for a nominal fee) to 8″ wide planks and delivered them (also for a fee) to the back door of our new retail space on a pallet. We installed each plank right over the existing linoleum in a staggered pattern with Liquid Nails and then followed with 2 1/4″ finishing nails installed with a pneumatic nailer in about 6-8 places on each board.

Once all were installed, we had a beautiful, very durable floor. But how to finish them?

Curio Floors 1

I talked myself out of the white-washed floors because I knew I’d be following every customer out the door, cleaning up after them as they left. The next best alternative? Mimic the look of barn wood! So we chose Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint color in Curio with Hemp Oil as a top coat. Not only are both all natural products and staining indoors in March in the middle of winter prohibited me from a “well ventilated area”, but the Hemp Oil would also make the surface water resistant. Perfect for a high traffic area!

This is where it got tricky. There was no tutorial out there on how to use Milk Paint on a large surface like this, all 1500 square feet of it, so I did what I could and everything turned out great.

Supplies you’ll need:

5 gallon bucket
Paint tray x 2
Plastic liner x 2
Roller
Extension pole
Drill
Drywall mixing drill attachment

Curio Floors

I mixed up 3 gallons of water with about 2 pounds of Milk Paint to create a stain (3 parts water:1 part paint). I mixed it all in a 5 gallon bucket with a drywall mixer attachment on the end of my drill.

Curio Floors 2
Curio Floors 3

Once I had it mixed, I tested the color on a scrap piece of plywood we had lying around. It was still too light. So I added about 3 more cups of paint to what was already in the bucket. I gave it a good stir with the drill mixer, performed another test patch, and it was perfect.

I brought everything out onto the floor with me so I could mix as I went along, knowing that the pigments in the Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint would settle. I had the bucket, a roller with painting tray set up for rolling the stain and then a painting tray that I set the mixer into as I used it. I set it all on a drop cloth and then just dragged the drop cloth, carefully, around the room as I stained. This system seemed to work very well.

Curio Floors 5
Curio Floors 6

I put an empty cup into the bucket and poured the stain from the cup into the painter tray. I then rolled out the stain onto a large section, wiped it down by hand with a rag and then repeated these steps until the entire first section of our space was complete.

Curio Floors 7

There were some areas of overlap on the floor, as I’ve encountered with stain I’ve used in the past. I grabbed my orbital sander and gave those areas a light sanding before I applied the Hemp Oil.

Curio Floors 8
You can really see the difference in the floors in this photo:

Curio Floors 10

Once the stain was applied everywhere, I let it dry for about 4 hours. At that time, I was ready to apply the Hemp Oil to protect and seal the wood. I used a sponge mop and another painter tray for this step. I poured the Hemp Oil into the tray, laid the sponge mop in the oil, and applied generously until the entire floor was finished.

Curio Floors 9

I can’t even begin to tell you how pleased I am with the way the floors turned out. They have held up very well to the constant traffic in and out of our store.

Curio Floors 11
June 2014 Buffet After

Let’s not forget that I stained this entire floor, all 1500 square feet of it, indoors, in March in the Midwest with no open doors or windows. There were no fumes! Using a zero VOC paint to stain whenever possible just makes sense.

We love seeing jaws drop when we tell them our floors are made of plywood. And then again when we tell them we used Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint as a stain.

BESPOKE COLOR SERIES | dark clay

Bespoke

adjective | be-spoke

: made to fit a particular person

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Have you been mixing up some fun new colors lately? This custom color series is going to wrap up with a fun challenge. I had a customer working on her son’s room. She wanted to use earth tones, and be inspired by some of his favorite things:

Hiking: earth colors such as browns, greens, and khakis
Clothing: his favorite sneakers, leather jacket, and hiking boots

We decided to come up with a color that would represent a dark clay color, or like a good pair of dark brown leather boots, this color was inspired by:
shoe inspirationI started with a base of Dried Lavendar (I know, you are thinking, what??! just hang with me!)
clay1 Do you remember how I mentioned in the intro post to add the dominant color last? This is to get the undertones right- and then add the dominant color last- this way you are not over using lighter colors to lighten the dark color.
So with this principal in mind- I then added the brown: 1 part Curio
clay2 I added .5 more of Curio, wanted it just a bit darker.
The blue in dried lavender with the red in the curio give us just a slight dark purple undertone.
ADU-46 copy To counteract this- I added 1 part of MS yellow. This tones down the purple and gives more of a brown hue.. slightly lighter than curio by itself.
clay4 That was just what it needed to make it look like a dark earthy clay color!
clay5 The ratios for this color are
2 parts Dried Lavendar
1.5 Parts Curio
1 part MS yellow
clay6 I hope you have enjoyed this post series as much as I have! I just love that the possibilities are endless with this awesome milk paint line! Please share your favorite recipes with us as well!!! We just might feature it here!

BESPOKE COLOR | robin’s egg blue

Bespoke

adjective | be-spoke

: made to fit a particular person

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It’s custom color time again! I am pretty excited to share this combo with you- it is one of my all time favorites I mix up!  This is the perfect robin’s egg blue. It has just enough green and just enough blue with a soft undertone of gray! I LOVE it!

(Here’s a piece in this color!)
CUSTOM COLOR SERIES | robin's egg blue Ok… on to the secret!
custom color This color contains Shutter Gray and Kitchen Scale.
There is just enough blue in shutter gray that you don’t need to add any blue to this color- and since Kitchen scale is already a great mix of blue and green as well- we have all we need to make this color just right!
Start with a base of Shutter Gray:
CUSTOM COLOR SERIES | robins egg blue (if you recall from previous posts we are doing 2 parts (tablespoons) of mixed paint for our base)
Then add the dominant color- kitchen scale- I did 1 part.
robins egg blue2 Mix your color: (** note, you paint will be thick- so even your ratios out with water, starting a little less than equal parts as to not get too watery)
CUSTOM COLOR SERIES | robin's egg blue This combination was perfect:
2 parts shutter gray to 1 part kitchen scale
CUSTOM COLOR SERIES | robin's egg blue This is a tried and true color and a great seller for me!
CUSTOM COLOR SERIES | robin's egg blue